Dana 44 and Corporate 10 bolt Crossover and High Steer
axle GM trucks suffer from some serious steering problems, one
of the biggest is due to poor geometry. The factory GM steering
will fail to steer the truck when you're in twisted offroad
situations, in fact, there are many times when the steering box
is all the way to lock and the tires are pointed straight! Our
solution to this is a "crossover steering" system where the
draglink runs side to side instead of front to back. This
dramatically improves the steering geometry and makes turning to
the axle stops possible under all conditions.
Crossover steering is also a necessity
with a solid axle swap and we have the parts you need for your '88 and
newer truck with a solid axle conversion! Price is the same as you
see below, though you don't need to change the steering box on the 88-98
IFS (new body style) trucks.
Dana 44 crossover steering instructions
If you don't see your application, call us and
we will set you up with what you need!
Crossover and high steer system for '67-'87 ('91) GM
truck with GM D44 or 10 bolt, 4-6" of lift
You will also need:
2WD GM steering box:
This is required
on '67-'87 ('91) Chevy trucks
because the factory 4wd shaft will not allow you to use a pitman
arm necessary for side to side motion of the steering.
The 2WD GM steering boxes bolt right in place of a 4WD one (get
a box from the same vintage truck, there were some variances in
fittings and spline sizes). We offer a range of boxes from PSC (click
here) or you can source your own.
A flat top passenger side knuckle:
the correct knuckle and it needs to be machined, drilled and tapped for
the steering arm. For more information, click
Parts that are included in our crossover steering
This is the
arm that attaches to the steering knuckle on the axle. It uses
factory type studs, cone washers and locknuts to bolt to the
knuckle. Our steering arms are tapered for the large
GM tie rod ends. These are not the same as the draglink
ends, be aware. We can custom build the steering arm with
no hole if you wish, or the holes can be drilled out for a heim
joint. We've had the best luck with using factory type tie
rod ends for steering since they are a better single shear
connection and have good service life.
The Offroad Design D44 steering arm end is cut on an angle
for the ball joint axis inclination angle and keep the angle on the
rod end minimized for best life of the joint and more vertical
wheel travel without steering bind. We've attempted
crossover steering systems using arms that aren't built with the
angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride height!
No droop available at all. This is an essential feature
for a properly built fully functional system.
4 tapered holes to work with stock or aftermarket knuckles.
Right Hand (Passenger's Side) Dana 44 Steering Arm
U9010-RH - $135
Stud kit: Nuts, cone
U9011 - $30
This is the link that ties the pitman arm and steering arm
Chevy draglinks are bent to help clear the factory crossmember. We cannot
guarantee that you will not have some contact with the
crossmember, it may require some trimming to work under all
suspension conditions. '67 to '72 GM trucks can often use a
straight draglink but we send the bent version to minimize angle
on the link ends.
Available straight or bent. For trucks with more
than 12" of lift call us.
U9015 - $95.00
**Call or email to purchase**
Tie Rod Ends:
1 LH, 1 RH
with jam nuts and castle nuts. These are a new HD end with angle capability
similar to a GM draglink end but with the short strong shank of
a tie rod end.
Our tie rod
ends are manufactured specifically for us. Factory GM
draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks
that can cause clearance issues. Factory GM tie rod ends
are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity.
Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial
in some applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle
trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as
soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra
shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.
our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload
spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a
Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts
wear. Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't
hold up well, see the picture below. Addionally, the
plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw
flew right through them. Notice the appearance of the
metal-on-metal end, it was very difficult to cut due to the heat
U9016-P - $95/pair
Replacement tie rod end boots, polyurethane, black. These
work equally well on '67-'87 ('91) tie rod or draglink ends.
Driver's side steering arm: This is the arm that attaches to
the driver's side knuckle so that the high steer tie rod has a
place to mount. 4 tapered holes to work with stock or
Left Hand (Driver's Side) Dana 44 Steering Arm -
U9010-LH - $135
Stud kit: A second stud kit to
mount the driver's side steering arm
U9011 - $30
Tie rod: This is the piece that
connects the two knuckles together
U9014-High Steer - $85.00 Buy Now
*Please specify what axle you have*
The Dana 44
and GM Corporate 10 bolt crossover steering arm bolts to the top
of the knuckle on the right hand side of the axle, just like the
factory 4wd steering arm bolts to the top of the left hand
knuckle. The problem is, none of the right side knuckles are
machined for this steering arm. The right side knuckle must also
have a large cast-in flat surface on the top of the knuckle to
be machined for the crossover steering kit. This "flat top"
knuckle is commonly found on '76 and older D44 axles. ALL GM corp 10 bolts and most '77-up D44's will need the knuckles from
an older D44 in order to complete the crossover steering, or one
of the brand new beefy Reid Racing pieces below. The
"flat top" and "round top" knuckles are shown below to
illustrate the difference: The flat top knuckle you need is on
the right. We do the machine work on your knuckle if you
send it in, price is $75, and it comes back ready to bolt in.
And if you
don't have good OE knuckles, check
out our ultra-beef Reid Racing/Dedenbear knuckles
Note that the
tie rod arms on a Chevy Dana 44 are tapered from the top with
the nut on the bottom while the 10 bolts and '77 and later Chevy
Dana 44's are the opposite, if you're finding the older flat top
knuckles, you'll need to swap both onto your axle.
getting a Reid Racing knuckle from us, you can buy just the
passenger side and we'll supply it to match your OE driver's
The knuckles will
interchange with many Dana applications, even in Jeep, Ford or
Dodge, but keep in mind the tie rod arms and other seemingly
minor details could make a big difference when you try to bolt
it all together.
Also be aware that drum brake steering knuckles have a rotated
spindle hole pattern and will not work with the crossover
steering without modification. This caught one customer totally
by surprise when he tried to bolt the kit together.
category you would like more information on.