Dana 44 and Corporate 10 bolt Crossover and High Steer

The straight axle GM trucks suffer from some serious steering problems, one of the biggest is due to poor geometry. The factory GM steering will fail to steer the truck when you're in twisted offroad situations, in fact, there are many times when the steering box is all the way to lock and the tires are pointed straight! Our solution to this is a "crossover steering" system where the draglink runs side to side instead of front to back. This dramatically improves the steering geometry and makes turning to the axle stops possible under all conditions.

Crossover steering is also a necessity with a solid axle swap and we have the parts you need for your '88 and newer truck with a solid axle conversion!  Price is the same as you see below, though you don't need to change the steering box on the 88-98 IFS (new body style) trucks.

Dana 44 crossover steering instructions

If you don't see your application, call us and we will set you up with what you need!

Part Number Description Price  
GK39GMD444-6HS Crossover and high steer system for '67-'87 ('91) GM truck with GM D44 or 10 bolt, 4-6" of lift $770 Buy now

You will also need:

2WD GM steering box: This is required on '67-'87 ('91) Chevy trucks because the factory 4wd shaft will not allow you to use a pitman arm necessary for side to side motion of the steering.   The 2WD GM steering boxes bolt right in place of a 4WD one (get a box from the same vintage truck, there were some variances in fittings and spline sizes).  We offer a range of boxes from PSC (click here) or you can source your own.

A flat top passenger side knuckle: You need the correct knuckle and it needs to be machined, drilled and tapped for the steering arm.  For more information, click here.

Parts that are included in our crossover steering system:

Pitman arm: This is the arm attaches to the steering box shaft
Click here to see our pitman arm options


Steering arm: This is the arm that attaches to the steering knuckle on the axle. It uses factory type studs, cone washers and locknuts to bolt to the knuckle.  Our steering arms are tapered for the large GM tie rod ends.  These are not the same as the draglink ends, be aware.  We can custom build the steering arm with no hole if you wish, or the holes can be drilled out for a heim joint.  We've had the best luck with using factory type tie rod ends for steering since they are a better single shear connection and have good service life.

The Offroad Design D44 steering arm end is cut on an angle to correct for the ball joint axis inclination angle and keep the angle on the rod end minimized for best life of the joint and more vertical wheel travel without steering bind.  We've attempted crossover steering systems using arms that aren't built with the angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride height!  No droop available at all.  This is an essential feature for a properly built fully functional system.  4 tapered holes to work with stock or aftermarket knuckles.

Right Hand (Passenger's Side) Dana 44 Steering Arm
U9010-RH - $135      
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Stud kit: Nuts, cone washers and studs

U9011 - $30    
Buy Now

Draglink: This is the link that ties the pitman arm and steering arm together.  Most Chevy draglinks are bent to help clear the factory crossmember. We cannot guarantee that you will not have some contact with the crossmember, it may require some trimming to work under all suspension conditions. '67 to '72 GM trucks can often use a straight draglink but we send the bent version to minimize angle on the link ends.  Available straight or bent.  For trucks with more than 12" of lift call us.

U9015 - $95.00      **Call or email to purchase**

Tie Rod Ends
1 LH, 1 RH with jam nuts and castle nuts.  These are a new HD end with angle capability similar to a GM draglink end but with the short strong shank of a tie rod end.

Our tie rod ends are manufactured specifically for us.  Factory GM draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks that can cause clearance issues.  Factory GM tie rod ends are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity.  Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial in some applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.

Additionally, our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts wear.  Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't hold up well, see the picture below.  Addionally, the plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw flew right through them.  Notice the appearance of the metal-on-metal end, it was very difficult to cut due to the heat treat.

   U9016-P - $95/pair   
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Replacement tie rod end boots, polyurethane, black.  These work equally well on '67-'87 ('91) tie rod or draglink ends.
$10/pair  Buy Now

Driver's side steering arm
: This is the arm that attaches to the driver's side knuckle so that the high steer tie rod has a place to mount.  4 tapered holes to work with stock or aftermarket knuckles.

Left Hand (Driver's Side) Dana 44 Steering Arm -
U9010-LH - $135       Buy Now

Stud kit: A second stud kit to mount the driver's side steering arm

U9011 - $30     Buy Now

Tie rod: This is the piece that connects the two knuckles together

U9014-High Steer - $85.00  Buy Now  *Please specify what axle you have*

The Dana 44 and GM Corporate 10 bolt crossover steering arm bolts to the top of the knuckle on the right hand side of the axle, just like the factory 4wd steering arm bolts to the top of the left hand knuckle. The problem is, none of the right side knuckles are machined for this steering arm. The right side knuckle must also have a large cast-in flat surface on the top of the knuckle to be machined for the crossover steering kit. This "flat top" knuckle is commonly found on '76 and older D44 axles. ALL GM corp 10 bolts and most '77-up D44's will need the knuckles from an older D44 in order to complete the crossover steering, or one of the brand new beefy Reid Racing pieces below. The "flat top" and "round top" knuckles are shown below to illustrate the difference: The flat top knuckle you need is on the right.  We do the machine work on your knuckle if you send it in, price is $75, and it comes back ready to bolt in.


And if you don't have good OE knuckles, check out our ultra-beef Reid Racing/Dedenbear knuckles HERE.

Note that the tie rod arms on a Chevy Dana 44 are tapered from the top with the nut on the bottom while the 10 bolts and '77 and later Chevy Dana 44's are the opposite, if you're finding the older flat top knuckles, you'll need to swap both onto your axle.

If you're getting a Reid Racing knuckle from us, you can buy just the passenger side and we'll supply it to match your OE driver's side knuckle.

The knuckles will interchange with many Dana applications, even in Jeep, Ford or Dodge, but keep in mind the tie rod arms and other seemingly minor details could make a big difference when you try to bolt it all together.

Also be aware that drum brake steering knuckles have a rotated spindle hole pattern and will not work with the crossover steering without modification. This caught one customer totally by surprise when he tried to bolt the kit together.

Choose the category you would like more information on.

Doubler™ Dual Transfer Case
Swaybar Correction/Disconnect™ Kit
Shackle Flip™ Kit for ‘67-up GM trucks
Bolt-In Steering Box Brace Kit
1" Body Lift Kit
Competition Style Motor Mounts
Heavy Duty Front Shackles
Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts
Blazer Soft Tops

Greasable Rear Suspension Bushings
Swaybar Bushing Kits
Body Mounts
Transfer case mounts
Spring Bushings
Competition Style Bumpstops
Bushing Assemblies
Tuff Country Suspension
Coming Soon...