Dana 60 Crossover Steering
Dana 60 crossover steering instructions
Keep in mind
that while our main specialty is the GM fullsize trucks, most of our
steering components will work with other vehicles than just fullsize GM trucks, if you have a kingpin Dana 60 axle in
another vehicle type, let us know and we'll work out a
customized kit for you. We have assembled systems for
vehicles ranging from a simple GM D60 in a Jeep to oddballs like
(particularly the straight
axle GM and Dodge trucks) suffer from some serious steering
problems, one of the biggest is due to poor geometry. The
steering will fail to steer the truck when you're in twisted offroad
situations. In fact, there are many times when the
steering box is all the way to lock and the tires are pointed
Our solution to this is a "crossover steering"
system where the draglink runs side to side instead of front to
back. This dramatically improves the steering geometry and makes
turning to the axle stops possible under all conditions.
Solid axle conversions virtually always need crossover steering
The parts required to do a crossover steering on a GM truck with
a Dana 60 front axle are pictured below:
Click Here to Order
Complete ORD Crossover Steering Systems
Offroad Design crossover steering features:
We stock dozens of versions of our crossover
steering for specific trucks/lift heights and axles. Our draglinks are already cut to the correct length and directly
threaded (not welded). If needed the draglink is bent to
help tie rod end angle and to clear the engine/crossmember. Our
draglinks use heavy wall 1020 DOM tubing and the best possible
We spec out specific pitman arm options
depending on application.
We use the shortest tie rod ends possible (not OE draglink
ends) because that can be crucial for engine crossmember
clearance, often the offset bend needs to start as soon as
possible. Our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design for
the ultimate in durability, see details
on that here.
Our billet steel steering arms are built to
match the rest of our system and can be built to use the OE
spring or springless if you'd prefer.
You'll notice that the ORD steering arm
is cut on an angle where the tie rod end seats. This is to
correct for the kingpin axis inclination angle and keep the
angle on the rod end minimized for best life of the joint and
more vertical wheel travel without steering bind. We've
attempted crossover steering systems using arms that aren't
built with the angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride
height with no droop available at all. This is an essential
feature for a properly built fully functional system.
A set of true
ARP studs tie the steering arm to
the knuckle, substantially stronger than grade 8 hardware!
Long story short, our crossover steering kits
are NOT generic at all. They are a matched system that
will bolt right on and get your truck steering lock to lock!
Here is a
breakdown of the individual kit parts and prices:
These are the arms that attach to the steering knuckles on the
axle. Each one is supplied with new tapered nuts, replacement
studs are available if required. All right hand steering
arms will have 2 holes so they can be upgraded to our High Steer
conversion later if necessary. All D60 arms are also drilled with the extra bolt hole
to bolt on Reid Racing HD knuckles or factory GM, Ford and Dodge
Set of 4 ARP high strength, 190,000+ psi studs only
U9002 - $33/set of four
D60 Steering arm nut
GU5113 - $1/each
This is the link that ties the pitman arm and steering arm
We will sell
the threaded tube and the ends separate if you wish. If you have
a GM truck, we can usually build your draglink from lengths we
have on file. For some GM applications and for other vehicle
types, we will need a measurement for the draglink.
Available straight or bent, we thread the tubing directly for a
direct fit, bolt-on part that isn't welded together.
U9015 - Click here to order the draglink by itself
1 LH, 1 RH
with jam nuts and castle nuts. These are a new HD end with angle capability
similar to a GM draglink end but with the short strong shank of
a tie rod end.
Our tie rod
ends are manufactured specifically for us. Factory GM
draglink ends have good angle capacity, but have long shanks
that can cause clearance issues. Factory GM tie rod ends
are nice and short, but have very little angle capacity.
Our ends are built with the best of both worlds, this is crucial
in many applications (particularly 67-87 GM straight axle
trucks) as many times the bend in the draglink has to start as
soon as possible to clear the engine crossmember, the extra
shank on draglink ends makes that impossible.
our tie rod ends are a metal-on-metal design with a preload
spring on the bearing race (sort of like the upper kingpin on a
Dana 60), that helps keep the joint tight even as the parts
wear. Many joints are built with a plastic race that don't
hold up well, see the picture below. Additionally, the
plastic ends don't appear to have a heat treat, our band saw
flew right through them. Notice the appearance of the
metal-on-metal end (at left), it was very difficult to cut due to the heat
U9016-P - $95/pair
Replacement tie rod end boots,
polyurethane, black. These work equally well on '67-'87
('91) tie rod or draglink ends. Our tie rod ends come with
boots, these would be extras or replacements.
Sector shaft nut/washer for 2WD
steering box (or most any Saginaw box),
7/8"-14. $9 for the nut and washer
Tall Truck Crossover Steering
with over 8" of lift, we offer our crossover kit with a billet
ORD riser block and ARP stud kit to raise the right side
steering arm. We do not recommend using our High Steer system on
kits that use our billet steering block since both arms would
have to be on top of steering blocks placing even more stress on
the knuckle tops. The tie rod damage solution in this situation
is to run our 1.5" heavy duty tie rod in the stock location. Our
HD tie rods are VERY resistant to bending and stand up to a lot
we do custom draglinks for trucks over 12" of lift. Call
Kingpin Dana 60 steering block, billet steel,
2.25" tall, for '67-'87('91) with 1 ton front axle and 5" of
lift or more
U9018 - $85
ARP stud kit for our billet steering block.
Steering blocks have a reputation for shearing the studs due to
poor quality metal, this is where that stops. We build our
block to match these super strong (190,000+ psi, far beyond
grade 8 strength) ARP studs and failures have been non-existent
the category you would like more information on.